The casual subculture is a subsection of association football culture that is typified by football hooliganism and the wearing of expensive European designer clothing.[1][2][3][4][5] The subculture originated in the United Kingdom in the early 1980s when many hooligans started wearing designer labels and expensive sportswear in order to avoid the attention of police and intimidate rival firm members. They did not wear club colours, so it was allegedly easier to infiltrate rival groups and to enter pubs.
Music genres popular among casuals in the late 1970s included: mod revival, postpunk, Oi! and ska.[6] By the 1980s, casuals' music tastes were eclectic, with some enjoying pop groups such as Wham!, ABC, The Human League, Spandau Ballet and Adam and the Ants.[7] In the late 1980s and early 1990s, many casuals were part of the Madchester and rave scenes, and in the 1990s, many were fans of Britpop.[6] There was a strong crossover with rave culture, with many ravers wearing football casual brands but distanced from football hooliganism.[7][8][9] Madchester bands sometimes wore casual clothing on stage and in publicity photographs, as did Britpop acts such as Blur in their video for Parklife. Since then, the most popular genre among casuals has been indie rock.[6]
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British football support has had a strong fashion-led subculture element since the rise of the Teddy Boys in the mid 1950s. This continued with the mods of the early 1960s, the skinheads of the late 1960s (and later), and the mod revivalists of the late 1970s.
The casual subculture began in the late 1970s after Liverpool F.C.and Everton F.C. fans introduced the rest of England to European fashions that they acquired while following their teams at European games. These fans arrived back in England with expensive Italian and French designer sportswear, most of which they looted from stores. The fans brought back many unique clothing brands that had not been seen in the country before. Soon other fans were clamouring for these rare items of clothing, such as Lacoste or Sergio Tacchini shirts, and unusual Adidas trainers. At the time, many police forces were still on the lookout for skinhead fans wearing Dr. Martens boots, and paid no attention to fans in expensive designer clothing.
In the 1980s, other clothing labels that became associated with casuals included: Pringle, Burberry, Fila, Stone Island, Umbro, CP Company, Fiorucci, Pepe, Benetton, Ralph Lauren, Henri Lloyd, Lyle & Scott, Ben Sherman, Fred Perry, Kappa and Slazenger. Fashion trends frequently changed, and the casual subculture reached its peak in the late 1980s. With the arrival of the acid house, rave and Madchester scenes, the violence of the casual subculture faded.
In the mid-1990s, the casual subculture experienced a revival, but emphasis on style had changed slightly. Many football fans adopted the casual look as a kind of uniform, identifying them as different from the ordinary club supporters. Popular clothing brands included Stone Island, Aquascutum, Burberry, Lacoste, Prada, Façonnable, Hugo Boss, Maharishi, Mandarina Duck and Dupe. In the late 1990s, many football supporters began to move away from the brands that were considered the casual uniform, because of the police attention that these brands attracted. Several designer labels also withdrew certain designs from sale after they became associated with casuals.
Casual fashion experienced an increase in popularity in the 2000s, with British music acts such as The Streets and The Mitchell Brothers sporting casual outfits in their music videos. Casual culture has been highlighted by films and television programmes such as ID, The Firm, The Football Factory and Green Street. Although some casuals have continued to wear Stone Island clothing in the 2000s, many have detached the compass badge so as to be less obvious. However, with the two buttons still attached, those in the know are still able to recognise the clothing items. Other clothing labels associated with casuals in the 2000s have included: Adidas Originals, Lyle & Scott, Fred Perry, Armani, Lambretta, Lacoste, Nudie Jeans, Edwin and Superga. Many casuals have adopted a more subtle and underground look, avoiding more mainstream clothing brands for independent clothing labels.
Casuals United, also known as UK Casuals United,[10] is a British anti-Islamic protest group that formed in 2009.[11] It is closely affiliated with the English Defence League,[12] a far right[13][14][15][16][17] street protest movement which opposes what it sees as the spread of Islamism, Sharia law and Islamic extremism in England.[18][19]